This church is so famous across Greece and the Orthodox Christian world, that it is usually referred to simply as ‘the church of Tinos’ or ‘Virgin Mary of Tinos.’ Built in 1823, it is an impressive temple, for the creation of which some of the finest marble from Tinos and neighboring islands has been used.
Its fame and recognition stem from the reputedly miraculous icon called Panagia Evangelistria (The All-Holy Bringer of Good News), excavated near the area in January 1823 and still on display in the church. According to tradition, Virgin Mary appeared as a vision on nun Pelagia and revealed the location of the buried icon. It represents a major Christian pilgrimage in Greece, equal to what is Lourdes in France or Fatima in Portugal. Thousands of devoted Christians visit the sacred temple each year, especially on the major feast of the church, on 15th of August, the day of the Assumption of Virgin Mary.
Exomvourgo or Xobourgo is a steep granite mountain situated in central Tinos. It forms an imposing landmark with its rugged, craggy form, overlooking most of the island. Its obvious use as a natural fortress was quickly realized and Xobourgo has been used successively as a stronghold throughout history. The old fortification consists of a Cyclopean masonry wall of which a small part still remains.
During the Venetian era, when pirate invasions became common, the capital of Tinos was moved inside a fortified castle built on top of the mountain. The castle was named St. Helen after the temple built on the peak. Today Xobourgo is a popular touristic attraction both because of its unusual appearance as well as the endless view it offers. It is accessible through designated footpaths beginning from several villages built on its slopes.
One of the biggest villages in Tinos, Isternia (or Ysternia) is located about 20km from the main port and close to marble deposits. The nearby abundance of the precious rock allowed local sculptures to decorate every part of the community with unique pieces of art. The houses, the yards, the fountains, all carry an impressive art footprint, a spectacle that will capture every visitor’s attention and interest. Some of the greatest Greek sculptors, like Vitalis and Sochou, were born in Isternia and a local Museum exhibits their work and biographies. A charming, marble-paved path, links the main village to a sandy beach and the seaside part, known as Isternia Bay.
With my mind set in a sensitive, vulnerable, self exploring orbit, result of a personal process to become more aware, the company of two friends, Frank and Matthias, turned this internal journey into memory which will last forever.
A journey… …think of a mental one and your are thrilled with the things your discover about your thoughts and your way to perceive things around you …think of an actual one, under the Greek light, by the sea, and let your senses feel the nature’s grace.
Combining those two, on my…, words can never be enough.
Frank and Matthias
Those two gents are very important to me. Asking myself why, I cannot think of any other reason than their warm hearted openness and their inviting spirit, to share emotions and feelings. I have the impression that their daily routine requires this trancented epitome of our human existence, to be suppressed and forgotten. How fool the marionettists of our world are; to think that those two men can submit to their practices. I smile, when I think of them, cause all I see is the play being orchestrated the other way around, by the very marionettes 🙂
It only takes a few moments for them to leave the social tuxedo aside and, like kids, get themselves open, ready to feel, laugh and play!
Catching up
It has been an extensive period of time since we last saw each other. So long, that my mind started to gradually place the very reasons of my friends importance into the assurance of my oblivion. It was Frank, leaving no room for negotiations on the ride’s terms, who got me awaken. That made me realise how comfy laying back and waiting from others is. At the same time, he helped me to understand how critical is to avoid getting trapped on those tempting webs of apathy and inertia.
We meet each other, and in seconds our voice tone was progressively pitching louder, clearly signaling that our buoyant mood was already a fact. We liked that! It was only a couple of minutes later, when the familiar sound of the freehub sounded, as to melody written by a talented, yet to become famous, Austrian composer.
We shared news and updates from our lives. Not all of them were lighthearted or joyful, that is life after all. Both of them are going to experience some major changes in the near future. I could sense an ocean of thoughts whirlpooling on top of their minds, and I couldn’t stop mine joining that frenzy. The talking was cheerful, filled with a profound touch of enthusiasm. I noticed that we were looking each other, literally by turning our heads to face the one we were addressing to and coming closer so that we would give a friendly pat on the back, as a mischievous way to overcome the boundaries of us keeping our balance on the bikes.
Riding along the coast
That playful talking did not last long. The first views of the sea, with its shimmering, blue waters, started to claim intensively for our attention. How helpless we were. All the importance of our topics was, almost instantly, dissipated, right there, in front of our eyes. Our riding became more structured, more individualistic. We sought no talking, no thinking, just hearing the wind, feeling the gentle sun of Greece on our faces.
That wonderful feeling I felt there, made me realise that the most important part of the human communication is, quite frequently, carried out in absolute silence. Being close, no words; everything that follows is already shared.
The enthusiasm and the secrecy of those moments, emerged an absolutely childish part of myself. I started by humming songs that randomly were coming into my mind and progressively, I ended up singing them as loud as I could, always having a smile on my face. I asked those two gentlemen for their forgiveness about my intrusive, acoustic annoyance. The only thing they replied was “it is ok”. Politeness, such a virtue of them, even though they were suffering by hearing my wrong notes and the improvised lyrics, half in Greek and half in English.
Temple of Poseidon
I wonder how many bike rides there are in the world that can include a quick stop at a location, which is as perfect in all aspects of aesthetics and significance, as the spot where the Temple of Poseidon is situated. The ancient Greeks managed to see far beyond their time, with their wisdom and logic to be their ultimate tools in their effort to produce this marvelous heritage. Every visit we pay to Attica Peninsula southest point (Sounio), confirms that their choices where meticulous and precise, as a way to conquer immortality. Who can argue that they haven’t succeeded?
Coffee Break at Lavrio
A 30 minutes effort got us to the little town of Lavrio. The temperature was already 18oC and a table by the water was all we needed to enjoy a coffee and share more of our news. The splashing sounds of the waves landing upon the sailing boats hulls were orchestrating one of the many nature’s symphonies and it was just the perfect background music for our agenda.
No one was in a rush. The coffee was finished quite fast, but the talking had a long way ahead. I remembered our postures to be laid back, with all of the our arms length to be in contact with the chair and our legs almost stretched. We all resembled a comfy king observed through a Dali surreal lens. Yeah… “melting kings”, that’s what we were.
Thinking that again, it is definitely the eloquent meaning of the words “Persistence of Memory” that drives me to write this article. Funny the way mind works.
The hilly part of Sounio region
Right after our coffee break, a 4 km long climb, traversing a characteristic pine forest, will offer us the gift of a stunning panoramic view. The sun had already started to get lower and its yellowish, warm rays created a shinning mirror reflected on the sea water, of which the edges were nothing else than the coastline of the Attica Peninsula. This view signaled the beginning of the descent, on a perfect tarmac, all the way to the sea level. What a joyful moment, that was.
The end
On our way back, we sadly, and quite obviously, realised that our food management was not wisely planned. I can recall the unease feeling of my empty stomach, trying to sing its own tune as loud as possible, almost competing my ongoing sonatas. However, eating anything that could take away the hunger, would be more of sin than a relief. The reason? What else, a meal prepared with the best of ingredients, following the authentic greek gastronomy and a fresh, perfectly grilled, fish served with a discreet taste of olive oil; all those by a setting sun.
It is exactly that point, where the mind overcomes the needs of the body and elevates the essence of a meal to a sharing mystagogy, with all the senses playing an equally important role in this experience.
What a unique way to learn about yourself. The more the beauty you get from the people you choose, the more the fun this process has. Guess what… that is all around us.
Only two things you need. One is to just keep you eyes open! The other is a bike 🙂
Menites was reputed as a grand, prestigious place, where visitors from other villages walked its streets with hats on as a gesture of respect. It is located very close to the Andros Chora. Menites is one of Andros’ most beautiful villages due to its natural beauty and traditional architecture. It’s an impressive historical settlement, which can be explored by walking its stone alleys and passages. The village boasts about the wealth of greenery, its natural springs, and the old Byzantine churches and chapels.
Have your water bottles empty
The main attractions of the village are the natural springs and the thick shadow from the trees. Here, regardless the heat, it is always cool and pleasant. Fill up your water bottles with fresh waters have a snack or a coffee and then resume your cycling. Your day has just been upgraded.
The location has been chosen by the first settlers of Andros during the 10th century BC. Historians are yet to explain how and why they arrive at this place. The most amazing factor is how.
This part of Andros island is a steep, naturally fortified, remote peninsula. Examing the ruins, someone notices the unusual structure of their residences which probably acted as camouflage, hiding their presence from the sea. Moreover, the settlers had erected strong walls to enhance their natural fortification. The multiple adversities and perils that residents evidently contended at those times, and led them to take all those measures of protection, constitute a still unresolved issue for scientists to this day.
How to get there by bike and a few cycling tips.
To approach that part of Andros, you will need to hike down a trail, the one that gets you to Zagora. If order to do so, you will have to lock your bikes at the trails entry point or somewhere on the main road.
Alternately, you may cycle down the gravel segment, until the roads becomes too rough. You can lock you bike there.
Please mind, that there is no restaurant or grocery store in close proximity, hence having water and food with you should be previously taken care of. The closest option would be at the main intersection on your enroute from/to Andros, where you can find a taverna. To our knowledge, this taverna is open during the summer months, but we are not sure of its status for the rest of the year. Hopefully, the more the cyclists visiting the place the better the chances are for all us to enjoy their services longer 🙂
Tip: right at the top of the site, a stunning, ultimately secluded beach is visible. In order to get there, you need to head back the trail and turn left approximately one kilometre after leaving from Ancient Zagora.
It extremely unlikely for visitors during their time on Andros not to notice the great depth of shipping culture and how this has shaped the island. Stenies village is one of the places that played an important role and paying this spot a visit is definitely a worthwhile thing to do.
Here, you will find no statutes, no archeological museums, no specials things. Here, you will have to discover everything yourself and for doing that, you will need a totally different approach. But first you need to understand why this is should be the way.
Generations of captains come from here, get off the bike and just… listen
The quaint alleys, traditional yards with blooming flowers, and flourishing lemon trees make any visitor to appreciate a “tidy”, clean villa full of smells and colors. But is that all? Certainly not.
Even from the beginning of the 18th century, becoming a seaman was a matter of pride among the small community of Stenies village. The more the years of experience in the open sea someone had, the more the esteem and the respect he received. In the case of being a captain in a big, steam powered vessels that was enough for someone to become one among the most prominent members of Stenies population. All of the seamen families here have been wealthy at some point. Many of them decided to go down a cosmopolitan way and they have moved to Athens, with some to have gone outside of the country (many of them are staying in London). The ones that stayed in Stenies, did so because this is their true home. It is breathtaking to think of people that have travelled the world for years, but could find no peace like the one back at home.
Therefore, for any curious cyclist who want to discover this true and fascinating side of the village, find the small “kafenio”, enjoy some coffee. Be always timid and avoid be loud or demanding; remember, that is the people’s special home and foreigners who do not respect this important place aren’t welcome – it makes perfect sense.
A cycling coffee stop full of stories from the sea
If you are lucky to see any of the locals joining you at the Kafenio, just ask them about the Stenies village and its history. If that person is in the mood to share more, do not leave. The stories you will hear would be real gold and then the magic will happen. You will discover this place through the people narratives and you will learn a lot about how the shipping industry was back then, at a time where real skills and courage needed to overcome on the hurdles of sailing in the open seas.
Palaiopolis is an ancient settlement in Andros, which thrived from the Classical era till the prevalence of the Roman Empire. Its ancient port, nowadays partially sunk, is particularly impressive and frequently observed by scuba divers. The picturesque villages and the flourishing yards of the houses draw the attention of visitors, who are given the opportunity to explore the place by following the central path that ends up to the beach. There is also an archaeological museum, which exhibits artifacts excavated in the area as well as other pertinent information about life in ancient Andros.
Cycling uphill is not that hard
When cyclists spot the sign to Paleopolis, they begin to have second thought whether they should go down that road or not. Indeed, it looks very steep, but it reality the grade is challenging, but impossible. The bikes can be dropped off at the main parking lot in front of this building and accessing the beach side is on foot. Leaving the bike there is perfectly safe, but locking them is even better 🙂 . Following the trail that starts from there, would be only thing needed to reach the sea level, a great spot to enjoy some rest.
Tips for cyclists
When you follow the path and you come across a fence, or something similar that blocks the way, you are welcome to open it, but mind closing it again, to avoid and sheeps or goats escaping the private property.
If you are using clipped in shoes, mind to bring a pair of flops with you. Walking down the trail with cleat type shoes, is not an experience we recommend 🙂
Using an MTB or a gravel bike can get you all the way to the beach side. Pure joy!
There is no kiosk or taverna where you can buy water or food from once you leave the main road. You may buy all you need before you descend towards the beach side.
Historically, the Towers of Andros belonged to prominent families. According to records, the erection of such edifices began during the 17th century as they provided both accommodation and protection. The adjustment and development of the old Andriotic house provided safety to the residents from the attacks of pirates. It’s particularly impressive to notice that incorporated to the doors of each castle, there were murder holes from which boiling water was poured to invaders.
On this case Pyrgos Mpistis was built early in the 17th century and has two storage compartments and many rooms. Going from one room to the other, was feasible with a moving ladder, no stairs, indicating the need from safety and protection.
The degree of isolation was so big that at the upper compartment, the owners have built a dovecote ensuring enough food and provisions for the residence.
It is believe that the need for protection was mainly to secure the great wealth shipping families had accumulated over the years, against looters and pirates.
The last time we visited the tower, we didn’t notice any access to water or toilet facilities. Also, if you plan to have to cycling break here, bring a pair of flops or wear your training shoes, since walking any clipped shoes is going to be a hassle.
There is no fee for visit the tower, but be cautious when you enter inside; the building in quite old.
The legend has it that the spring was named after Pasa San Riza who dwelled in Evia. His fez (Turkish hat) fell into a stream and was washed away in a spring in the village Apoikia in Andros Island. On this ground, it is believed that the two islands were connected.
The exact date of the renovation of the marble font of the spring is vague, yet we know that it was founded in 1787 under the supervision of Makarios Polemis who also funded the whole project. It was optimized mainly for household use, for watering gardens and for washing clothes by the women of the village.
The quantity of this water remains stable. The water has healing properties, thus in 1932 under royal charter, it was suggested that it cures kidney ailments and many other diseases.
It is an undisputed fact that the healing waters of the spring were fully deployed in 1929 when a factory was constructed to bottle it and export it to numerous markets. The water travelled throughout the globe and gained great reputation due to its therapeutic properties and its credibility. Furthermore, it is often compared to Evian, the renowned mineral water because of its exquisite features.
There is a sign next to the spring with the following saying
Hi stranger, remember, whenever you return to your homeland, you owe your life to me.
